Kook

What Surfing Taught Me About Love, Life, and Catching the Perfect Wave

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Book details:
  • Free Press | 
  • 336 pages | 
  • ISBN 9780743294201 | 
  • August 2010
$24.99 List Price

Read an Excerpt

WITNESS


I had watched the seal catch two waves. Now his head popped up beside me where I sat on my board. I almost fell off in surprise. “Hi,” I stammered. He blinked, unafraid and curious. Oh, man, I thought, he wants to be my friend. “Right?” I proffered. The seal didn’t seem to be into conversation. He turned his head toward the open ocean, just like a surfer looking for a set. Wow. These are the kind of moments we dream about. He had position on me. I mean that, technically, he was closer to the peak where the waves broke and so the next wave belonged to him. But no rule of surf... see more

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